I am fascinated by ruins. I love to wander around palaces and temples in decay. Even on holiday I make sure I have my dose of archaeology. It can be a Maya temple in Mexico or a pre-colombian statue in Colombia, the valley of the kings in Egypt or the Parthenon in Athens. I marveled even at giant stone spheres in Costa Rica that probably, had I not known they were that ancient, I would have easily ignored! If the beaches near Rome cannot compete with some of those tropical paradises, as a guide, I spend most of my time among ruins and there are sites that, more than others, I find truly amazing. If you like the idea of exploring ruins and grew up watching Indiana Jones’ movies you might have already visited Rome. You might have stopped along the Via dei Fori Imperiali to take a picture of the Markets of Trajan: its curved brick facade is actually quite known, a landmark of the city.
© JvL via Flickr
But have you actually entered?
The Markets of Trajan have become from 2007 the seat of a very interesting museum dedicated to the Imperial Fora: the reconstructions, multimedia panels and precious finds brought to light during recent excavations offer the unique opportunity to understand the area that, with the construction of Via dei Fori Imperiali under Mussolini, was heavily destroyed (80% of the Forums of Julius Caesar, Augustus, Nerva, Vespasian and Trajan was actually razed to the ground). It’s the ideal place to understand how the Imperial Fora were organized. It is an extraordinary complex which has survived in relatively good condition. Since it is not a major attraction, you won’t be bothered by crowds and groups.
It’s a great space to explore: we really feel miles away from the modern city. Its main street, the Via Biberatica might derive its Medieval name from the nearby Horrea piperatica, the spices warehouses built under Domitian, or from biber (drink) if supposedly the tabernae there were serving drinks! You can make your way through corridors and rooms and enjoy breathtaking views. The experience is often enhanced by great temporary exhibitions.
The complex, traditionally identified as a ‘mall’ was probably, the seat of a series of activities which had to do also with the administration.
In the the 30’s during the excavations under Mussolini, it was interpreted as a market. Actually the 150 cubicles look very much like tabernae (shops). A great example of modular commercial construction then. But there would have been so many steps for transporting goods up and down! The core is made of concrete and the brick coating is highly refined. We actually owe to the use of less expensive materials its preservation. It’s a complex which develops on 6 levels, including maybe shops but also administrative offices and archives. It was built against the flank of the Quirinal hill that was excavated for the purpose.
The use of bricks combines functionality and aesthetics.
The architect is the Greek Apollodorus of Damascus who was also an engineer. Born in Damascus between 60-70 BC, he left Syria in his twenties. Like Vitruvius, he was a military and civil engineer. He started designing war machines for the emperor Trajan, serving during his military campaigns in Dacia (modern Romania). His bridge over the Danube was the first to cross that river (1,135 m long).
Author of several treatises only the Poliorcetica survives: a work on siege machines. He designed several projects for the emperor Trajan: besides Trajan’s Column and Trajan’s Forum, various triumphal arches, baths, and other smaller buildings. His ambitious plans were made possible by the enormous quantity of gold that the Dacian Wars had provided. Trajan’s Forum is the grandest of all!
A stop at the Markets is highly recommended.
